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William Dean reviews Batoux’s:

Dazzling international cuisine comes to N6

Batoux’s is a new bistro that is currently being talked about in revered tones by the most discerning North London foodies. The talk is that Head Chef, Michael Batoux, has revamped this traditional establishment with an exciting, international menu, putting his Michelin star experience to good effect. I heard that his new, thoroughly modern, canteen-style restaurant prides itself on its lunches, which according to its publicity, are ‘lovingly prepared, every day, from fresh ingredients’. Intrigued to find out more, last week I made the short journey across the playground to discover what all the fuss is about.

On entering the restaurant I was immediately taken by the excitable buzz of Batoux’s young clientele, enthusiastically tucking in to the incredible food on offer. I was interested to note that each day offers a range of classic dishes representing the best of a country’s cuisine. On this day, Michael and his team had conjured up a classic Greek menu.

With the smell of roasted garlic and Mediterranean herbs filling the room, I joined the short queue. I opted to start with the soup of the day. Fresh and zinging with flavour, Batoux’s pea and mint soup certainly hit the spot. Considering my New Year’s resolution, this should have been sufficient, but with a main course smelling so appetising, I wasn’t going to stop there.

Faced with the difficult choice of either tzatziki in pitta with ratatouille, or the garlic roasted chicken with herby potatoes and Mediterranean roasted vegetables, I opted for the chef’s tasting menu. The delicately flavoured chicken was so tender it literally melted in my mouth. This was perfectly complemented by the smooth tzatziki and rich ratatouille. The vegetables, roasted carrot and courgette, were cooked to perfection. The dish was completed with a range of Greek salads from a colourful, appealing and beautifully presented salad bar. Such was the authenticity of this plate, I could have been at Lemonia.

Feeling nicely full and set up for an afternoon tackling my list of very important things to do, I thought it rude not to sample Batoux’s dessert. I opted for the baklava. Sweet and syrupy, the light, flaky pastry played with my taste buds.

Although currently only open at lunchtimes, I hear Chef Michael has plans to put on a Chef’s Supper Club in the autumn. With food of this quality, I imagine the hungry hordes will soon be queuing down Storey Road.

Batoux’s at Highgate Primary School

Storey Road, London N6

Currently open Mon – Fri noon to 1.30 pm

Three course tasting menu £2.50, free for younger children, concessions available.

 

William